The ski version works with alpine or telemark skis, and comes with a 6" hardened steel cutting bar, a 6" medium structure ruby stone and a brass cleaning brush. An optional 6" coarse structure stone is available.
- This precision hand-planing tool uses a hardened steel bar to cleanly shave off high or low spots on p-tex bases, remove existing oxidized p-tex areas, as well as shave off unwanted p-tex hairs and microhairs.
- Replace the steel bar with a structure stone to cut a linear structure into the base, dispersing water and improving glide.
- The tool includes a medium structure stone, optional coarse structure stone is available.
- Although the steel bar is hard enough to cut down steel edges if they're too high, we recommend you use a mill file (or better yet, the Ski Visions File Base Flattener) to do that job and save your steel bar from unnecessary wear.
- A few quick passes with this tool after every week or so on the slopes will freshen up your structure, keep the base flat, and improve its ability to absorb wax.
- These periodic touch-ups significantly improve performance without removing excess base material.
- Replacement and optional blades are available.
- For comprehensive information on using this tool, click here.
- Structure stones can be redressed.
- Steel planing blade cane be re-honed using the optional Blade Sharpening Stone.
- Tools and stones made in the USA.
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Doesn't work as expected. I don't understand how come there are so many positive reviews here. Are those payed ones? Or are negative reviews being deleted? So this tool cannot be used for flattening concave skis, neither for structuring, in best case you can remove ptex material after candle repair. I almost destroyed 2 skis with that. Thanks God we have wintersteiger machine round the corner, hope to fix skis there.
Amen to what Roy said. I just ordered my second one of these, so I have one unit with the steel blade, and one with the structure stone. The most useful ski tool I've found in over 40 years, and I worked at a ski shop for a while too.
feel like i have best wasting my time schleping my skis to the shop for a stone grind. not to mention the cost and convenience.
Works as advertised, go easy with it
Freaking awesome! I love doing my own ski repairs and tuning. Really helps with all kinds of stuff including core shot repairs, base flattening, getting base material out of the way for edge sharpening, etc. Works very well. Couldn’t do without it now. Will likely buy a second so I don’t have to swap stones/blades.
Read 'the book' (Tognar catalogue and guide!). If you do not realise the negative effects of failing to flatten your bases - then the rest is almost pointless! This is a solid accurate tool and yes - I did have slightly concave bases on a pair of new 'all mountain' skis but the best was transforming some older 'pigs on ice' skis which had sharp edges and would not turn - massively convex bases!
Easy to use and put great structure in the base with the stone. The steel took the peaks off but clearly left significant structure without 'buttering' the peaks over, clogging the structure.
I thoroughly de-waxed my skis before use and so had no problem with clogging. I applied 5 coats of Renew base prep wax before edge powder and finishing wax layers. I can honestly say the skis sucked up so much Renew I was shocked.
Bought tool number two to avoid swapping out the stone & steel all the time. Well worth it as the throughput starts to pick up in the shop. Plus I now have a spare stone for structuring the tips and other freestyle work.
I liked the Ski Visions idea of a manual stonegrind machine so imported the structure/flattening tool to see how it performed. Didn't start well as I dropped the ruby stone before even getting to the garage and it broke in half! Don't panic, as the healing powers of 2-pack epoxy gave me a perfect & resilient join.
First shot with the stone made me slightly concerned as the base looked like a ploughed field. However, as the video says, flatten the structure with the steel and it all makes sense. If you don't like the exact profile - maybe a small area is digging a little deep - two seconds lapping the stone will change it to a new profile. The steel is useful for a number of tasks and already I'm getting a feel for planing P-Tex repairs and similar. Despite what Mark says the steel won't eat your base edges or in fact make any impact on them.
I have just ordered a second tool to avoid swapping the steel & stone so often and speed up my workflow. I also ordered the file base planer to complete the manual stone grind experience.