This is a 230 volt model of our base repair iron, designed for use in countries using 230 volt current, Australia, New Zealand, Europe, etc. for our 120 volt version (North America, etc.) click here.
- Our base repair iron is a good choice for home tuners who have previously used drip candles to fill base gouges.
- It works with with p-tex repair ribbon, p-tex string or metalgrip so you can melt-in repairs that are more durable and cosmetically cleaner than drip candle repairs.
- The tool features a wooden handle and a ceramic heating element that heats-up quickly.
- Unlike soldering irons or woodburning tools that heat to 1000°F (538°C), it hovers around a safer 550°F (288°C) operating temperature.
- The tip can become slightly hotter if left unattended, up to 600°F (315°C) best to unplug if you think it will sit for 5 minutes or more.
- It comes with a narrow 3/16" flat nickel-plated copper tip, which melts and smoothes repair material to make pinpoint repairs without unnecessarily affecting surrounding base material.
- An optional 1/2 inch-widecurved tip for this iron is also available...it works better for melting P-Tex material into especially wide gouges or core shots (simply slide it on after slipping off the standard narrow tip).
- Replacement "standard" tips are available in case the one that came with the tool is damaged or lost.
- The 230v version comes standard with a North American style 2-flat-prong plug (the only way we can get them at this point) you will need to purchase a "plug adaptor" so it'll plug into the socket standard in your country. We offer them here, you can also find them is at an electronic shop or travel store. The iron is adjusted for 230v current so you don't need a current converter, just a plug adaptor.
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Great product, small nimble unit allows easy use for those smaller repair jobs. Temperature seems ideal
Got a nasty edge shot in a brand new pair of skis and all attempts at repairs pulled out within a day or two as the metal edge was exposed. Bought the repair iron and metalgrip as well as pTex ribbon. Took a little while to get used to the stickiness vs drip candles but the iron worked brilliantly and is nice and small so not clumsy working in and around small repairs (wide tip helps to force material into gouges). Bought the EU version and yes you do need a plug adapter but, given it seems impossible to buy such tools easily in the UK, I'm more than pleased.
I bought the 230V version for use in Europe - it would be good if this one came with a European plug, but not too big of a deal to use an adapter.
Works as it should - It heats up and melts things.
Tognar's videos were also helpful, and my base repair held up well after the first days of riding on it.
I practiced on an old pair of skis which I recommend. I also recommend the videos that Tognar have put together.
The iron works well once you get used to working the ptex in the gouge. I have yet to see whether the repair holds as it is end of season here in NZ, but I spent quite a bit of time smoothing the repairs with a file and scraper. I think this is key.
I also have the wide tip which works well, but dissipates heat quicker so you need to let that reheat
This is way better than drip candles and in the long run saves money
I was used to repair my board with the candle p-tex sticks. But that didn't always last very long . The white p-tex had a lot of black ash in it which doesn't make it look that good.
This iron makes it a lot easier and cleaner to repair the board. Hope it will last longer too.
In the beginning I made the mistake of using to much p-tex to fill scratches. Takes a few tries to get how to bets use this.
I found the iron pretty easy to get the hang of. I do recommend practicing on an old board or set of skis first however. In the beginning i found the practise repairs I did would just pop out. I have since found that patience is the key. Once you get the right technique of using the iron to work the metalgrip/ptex etc into the gouge it works a treat. Once I felt confident I moved onto the real reapair. It did a great job repairing a long core shot to my snowboard. I first melted the metalgrip into the shot then ptex string over the top. I have had 3 days of hard riding in Icy Mt Ruapehu hardpack conditions and the repair is currently holding solid. Highly recommended!