This is a 120 volt model of our base repair iron, designed for use in countries using 120 volt current, US, CAN, etc.
- Our base repair iron is a good choice for home tuners who have previously used drip candles to fill base gouges.
- It should be used on gouges greater than 1mm, it does not bond well to superficial scratches, if you want to fill gouges less than 1mm we suggest using P-Tex drip candles.
- It works with with p-tex repair ribbon, p-tex string or metalgrip so you can melt-in repairs that are more durable and cosmetically cleaner than drip candle repairs.
- The tool features a wooden handle and a ceramic heating element that heats-up quickly.
- Unlike soldering irons or woodburning tools that heat to 1000°F (538°C), it hovers around a safer 550°F (288°C) operating temperature.
- The tip can become slightly hotter if left unattended, up to 600°F (315°C) best to unplug if you think it will sit for 5 minutes or more.
- It comes with a narrow 3/16" flat nickel-plated copper tip, which melts and smoothes repair material to make pinpoint repairs without unnecessarily affecting surrounding base material.
- An optional 1/2 inch-widecurved tip for this iron is also available...it works better for melting P-Tex material into especially wide gouges or core shots (simply slide it on after slipping off the standard narrow tip).
- Replacement "standard" tips are available in case the one that came with the tool is damaged or lost.
- Click here to check out the video on how to use this tool to fill a gouge. Having trouble choosing between base repair pistol or Iron? Go Here
- Use on gouges that are greater than 1mm deep, this tool does not work well on minor scratches, use P-Tex candles for these.
- Try to keep the P-Tex that remains above the base as thin as possible so the heat can reach the base and so you don't have as much to remove.
- Don't let the hot tip touch the base, always keep a thin layer of P-Tex material between the iron tip and the base.
- P-tex repairs bond on a molecular level, you aren't trying to melt the P-Tex Base with the P-Tex Material, you just want the base to get warm enough to excite the molecules in the base and encourage them to bond with the repair material.
- Use a Surform tool followed by a sharp metal scraper, working from the center of the repair to the extremities at first to reduce the possibility of "pulling" the repair.
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Gave it 4 stars instead of 5 mostly due to the fact that the operator was not up to speed on how to use it efficiently. However, a well made iron and it melts the base repair material very well
It worked great until suddenly breaking after 3 years. It would be one thing if I was using this all the time, but I only use it about 5 times a year. It works but not reliable.
It's very easy to use, but i hope Tognar can make a switch button for it that can help it be ever better !
Recently purchased this along with the wide tip & P-Tex stuff to try my first core shot repair. The narrow tip worksed great with the metalgrip string to fill the base of the defect. Wide tip with P-Tex ribbon to complete the filling up to the base surface. Everything worked, my repair looks great and has held perfectly. Recommend.
If you have core shots and are looking to up your repair game, invest in this simple piece of equipment. With practice you will be doing shop level repairs in no time.
I've been using this with the different ribbon and coil p-tex options and it works great. You really need the optional wide tip for most repairs (at least as a beginner) as it allow you to lay the p-tex down a little smoother compared to the thin tip.
The iron did not get hot enough to melt the ptex ribbon.
Finally a system that makes the ptex stay in the core shot (needed the wider tip, should come as standard) I was very impressed and have been riding on the repaired board 27 days straight with no sign of it even starting to lift or pop
All my previous base repair experience was with a forced hot air plastic welder or a ptex gun. This thing killed it! Easy to use. Hard to screw up your ski. 2" along the edge in a low snow year and it is still solid.