There are two major styles of brushes: hand brushes and roto brushes. Hand brushes (as the name implies) fit in your hand and rely on good old elbow grease to get the job done. Roto brushes fit into an electric drill which spins the cylindrical brush and sends wax flying quick smart. Most people are fine with hand brushes, but if you often find yourself waxing a family or team worth of skis or own a quiver of snowboards, you’ll likely appreciate roto brushes.

We’ll start with hand brushes. Here we have a couple shape choices, rectangular and oval. It’s really a matter of size, generally an oval brush is larger than a rectangular brush, which equals more surface area and hence more bristles which get the job done that much quicker. Rectangular brushes measure around 3-4″ wide and 5-6″ long whereas oval brushes measure 3.5-4″ wide and up to 8″ long, oval brushes also have a hand strap which provides a solid feel and more powerful strokes. Rectangular brushes are around half the cost of oval and work well for most people, if you’re an avid waxer or own fat skis or a snowboard the oval brushes would be a good choice.

Examples of hand brush shapes

Roto brushes are cylindrical shaped and come in various lengths 100mm is the most common though 140mm brushes can be found, they are also made in 300mm lengths for snowboards. A shaft and handle are required to connect the brush to the drill, the shaft spins in the handle and a shield is included (though not on the snowboard length) to keep the wax particles from getting in your eyes, though safety glasses are still a must.

Ski & snowboard roto brushes with handles

Once you’ve committed to a bush type the next hurdle is determining what material you need. This is where much of the confusion lies when picking brushes. We’ll try sort out a handful of the most common brushes.

Stiff Steel-Used for refreshing base structure. An aggressive brush intended to be used sparingly through the season. Available as hand brushes only.

Steel/Fine Steel-Used to prep bases prior to waxing or as a second brush after scraping. Usually fine, soft steel bristles. Versatile and long lasting. Hand or roto.

Brass, Copper or Bronze-Used to prep bases prior to waxing. Removes oxidation, old wax and debris and revives base structure. They can also be used as first brush after scraping when applying cold waxes (e.g. blue or green). An essential brush. Hand or roto.

Nylon-Used as first brush after scraping, especially softer waxes. The bristles on these brushes are most often white, black or grey. Essential all around wax brush. Hand or roto.

Combo-A rectangular brush with brass (or copper, bronze) bristles on one end and nylon bristles on the other…two brushes in one! Lead with the end you intend to use and slight lift the following end. Best used on Nordic (cross country) skis, they require a lot of work when used on wide skis or snowboards! Hand only.

Horsehair-Used as second brush to further polish the base and break static. Also used for polishing hi-fluoro overlays. Bristle length varies (longer = softer). Hand or roto.

Soft Nylon-Used to polish hi-fluoro overlays. Also great for a final buffing of paste waxes (like Swix F4). Silky-soft nylon bristles, usually blue or black. Hand or roto.

Wildboarhair-Not joking…used as first brush after scraping, nice and stiff.

Cork-Technically not a brush but in the same category. Used to apply hi-fluoro overlays (powders and solids) by creating heat through friction and melting the wax. Hand or roto.

The intended uses listed above can and do vary, but it is a decent overview. Keep in mind that the longer the bristles of a particular material, the softer the brush (bristle diameter plays into this too but is more difficult to determine). The two essential brushes are a brass and a nylon; add a horsehair if you want some extra polish or are using overlays.

When using roto brushes be aware of the recommended drill RPM’s and use light pressure…don’t bear down. Also, safety glasses are a must and you might consider a respirator especially with hi-fluoro overlays.

Thanks for reading, have a great season!

P-tex bases can lose their ability to absorb wax efficiently. The most common cause is simply neglecting to wax regularly. The high friction of snow acts like sandpaper to abrade the base, wear off wax and leave the p-tex dried out. Black bases make it easy to tell if your bases need wax, though close examination of clear bases in good light will reveal the same condition. Bases that need wax will appear whitish in areas, especially along the edges where pressure and friction tend to be greatest. Waxed bases appear consistently shiny.

Another cause is too much heat created by a improper stonegrinding, the use of excessive speed or pressure when rotobrushing, or, most commonly, from an improperly used or uncalibrated wax iron. About half the surface area of most sintered racing bases will absorb wax when new…these are call “amorphous” regions. Excess heat converts these to “crystalline” regions, which do not absorb wax. Furthermore, heating the base can increase its oxidation by atmospheric oxygen. Overheating a base also dries it out and results in the creation of more unwanted, drag-inducing p-tex hairs. Wax absorption can be recovered by restructuring the skis, with a stone grind or hand structuring tool, which “opens” the base allowing wax to seep into the pores.

You can help thwart most of these occurrences in obvious ways. When hot-waxing, for example, use a decent wax iron that holds a fairly constant temperature (+ or – 8*F). Most household irons don’t…they fluctuate wildly in temperature (in excess of 40*F). Secondly, calibrate your iron using a thermometer (a simple coil type will suffice). Third, apply enough wax to the base so you have a nice molten layer between the iron and p-tex. Don’t let an iron come in direct contact with a dry base. Remember, wax…even the pricey fluoro stuff…is cheap compared to a new pair of skis or snowboard!

Next up, wax application methods and deciphering wax choices.

Thanks!

Wiltz has been making skis scary fast for 3-decades, he has tuned for Tommy Moe, Daron Rahlves, and Bode Miller and snowboarders Nate Holland and Shaun Palmer, to name a few. Now off the World Cup circuit his knowledge and skill have found new venues; at his tuning and repair shop, Finish Line, located at the base of Sugar Bowl in Tahoe and at Toko sponsored tuning clinics dotted across the United States.

At first meeting you get the impression he is genuinely glad you showed up, quick to laugh he shakes hands with the solid grip of a craftsman. When he is in his element, file in hand, there is an economy of motion, fluidity refined through years of repetition.

Thirty-odd-years of knowledge is a lot of territory to cover in a two-hour clinic, but Wiltz refined it well and delivered key points regarding base structuring, edge prep and waxing, some of which are listed below.

• A ski base gets increasingly fast after it is structured, to a point, then it will start to slow, use a steel brush to revive the structure and open the base, this will bring back the speed.
• “Bevel consistency is everything,” -Bevel from the very tip of the ski to the end of the tail. Beginning and ending the bevel at the contact points (where the ski touches the snow) creates an abrupt change, it is better to create a uninterrupted angle along the length of the ski.
• “Base bevel only increases, it never decreases,” -The abrasiveness of snow, especially hard snow, will increase base edge angle over time. Edge material wears away more quickly than the base.
• Dull files can increase the base bevel -A dull file requires more pressure to cut, that pressure can create too much base bevel. Wiltz recommends 16 or 20 tooth/cm files for base beveling (the more teeth/cm on a file, the finer the cut).
• After you have cut a side or base bevel wrap 320grit aluminum oxide or silicone carbide sandpaper around a file and lightly sand the edges with long strokes (be sure to use a bevel tool), this technique prepares the metal to better accept diamond or aluminum oxide stones.
• A side bevel guide in conjunction with a true bar is a easy and accurate way to check side bevel angles. (photo to follow soon).
• De-tune edges using a gummi stone only! This allows the edge to be brought back to sharp if needed.
• “What matters is the final product, not the tool.”
• Hot scrape skis to clean them instead of using a chemical base cleaner. -Soft hydrocarbon waxes like Swix CH10 or Toko S3 Yellow penetrate deeply into the base, scraped while hot the wax pulls out old wax and impurities and at the same time moisturizes the base. Repeat until wax shavings appear clean. Finish with a brass or copper brush.
• Use snow-forecast.com for up to date info on major areas. This is a major help with wax selection if you aren’t on the hill!
• If unsure which wax to use always err on the cold side.
• Be wary of “over juicing” junior skis, developing muscles may not be able to hold on, too fast a wax job may actually cause them to blow the course.

Of course there was much more information than this, and Wiltz tuned as he talked so it was possible to see the techniques first hand. Luckily there are a few more stops on his tour, if he is coming through your neck of the woods make the effort to see him, your skis will thank you.

I talk to alot of folks about the importance of hot waxing skis. The response many new comers have when talking ski wax is, “I don’t need wax, I don’t go that fast.” Ski wax does help the ski slide across the snow with less drag, which naturally increases speed a bit (or alot, depending on your bank account), but with that increase in speed comes an increase in control. Skis that are waxed tend to turn easier and travel at more predictable speeds (less of that start-stop sensation). Waxing also protects the base, adding durability and preventing it from oxidizing and drying out.

If you’re thinking of waxing your own skis or snowboard I highly recommend you not skimp on the proper tools, the right tools will make the task much easier with a minimum of frustration.

1. Ski or Snowboard Vise– Retaining the skis or snowboard while waxing is crucial, it can be the difference between a pleasant waxing (or tuning) experience and one that ends in wailing and frustration as you chase a loose ski or board across the garage. Sawhorses work in a pinch, but lack the support and retention of a proper ski vise.
2. Ski Waxing Iron– You don’t have to buy top of the line, though if you plan to wax alot you will appreciate spending a bit more. There are two types of waxing irons, analog which utilize a thermostat to regulate temperature and digital which use a micro-processor, digital irons are easily identified by the incorporation of an LED screen that displays the temperature. An analog iron is fine for most folks, those applying race waxes can benefit from the increased accuracy (and often increased wattage) of a digital iron. Avoid household clothes irons at all costs, the temperature fluctuations are much higher and the steam holes gather wax and debris which get too hot and smoke terribly.
3. Plexiglass Scraper– Sold in ski and snowboard widths. Can be sharpened for many seasons. Don’t use a metal scraper to remove wax, it will remove base material too!
4. Brush(es)– If you’re just starting out, one or two brushes will suffice. Here’s a list of three common brushes and their uses.Brass- Use to clean out base structure prior to waxing, also helps refresh existing structure in the base. Nylon- If you were to choose one brush, this would be it. Use it right after you scrape to remove excess wax from the surface of the base (wax remains in the pores of the ski base where it belongs).Horsehair- Used as a polishing brush after the Nylon brush, also removes friction in the base.
5. Wax– Lots of choices out there, do not be discouraged. If you’re just starting out pick a universal wax (pick a brand, any brand) and roll with it. Lot’s of folks never use anything other than universal and that’s just fine. Keep it simple while you develop your waxing technique. I’ll post an article on other wax choices soon.

These are the basic items, here are some basic guidelines:

1. Wax in a well ventilated area or wear a respirator.
2. Make sure iron is adjusted to the recommended melt temperature for your wax (see wax packaging). Remember this is a starting temp. not set in stone.
3. If the iron is smoking it is too hot, back it off until there is no smoke.
4. Keep wax between the iron and base, don’t touch a hot iron to a dry base. When your starting out apply more wax than you think you need and adjust the amount as you gain experience.
5. Keep the iron moving.
6. Keep your scraper sharp.
7. Have fun!

Here is a clip on basic hot waxing (techniques apply to both snowboards and skis)

While waxing corks, hot boxes and thermo wraps have all earned their places in the world of waxing the electric wax iron is still the most widely used method of getting wax into a base. Readily available, easy to use and affordable with practice they can provide a safe, penetrating and durable wax. There are two types of electronic wax irons on the market today – analog and digital.

Tognar Chugger, Toko T8 and Swix T7311 Analog Waxing Irons

Analog wax irons utilize a thermostat to regulate temperature. During use the thermostat switches on and off as needed to stay within range of the set temperature. The difference between the high and low temperature is referred to as the thermostat window. The desired temperature is set by turning an incrementally marked dial.

Analog wax irons range in price from an affordable $40 up to $200. The more expensive waxing irons are fitted with better thermostats (less temperature fluctuation), thicker base plates (better heat retention) and more advanced heating elements with better coverage (more consistent heat across the base plate). An inexpensive analog wax iron is fine for occasional waxing, but those waxing often especially with fluorocarbons should look toward the upper end for best results.
It is important to note that waxing irons differ from common household irons. They will not have holes in the base plates, the base plates will be thicker, and they will also have more advanced heating elements that, in conjunction with the thicker base plate, produce a more even heat across the base plate.

An analog iron can be calibrated using a coil-type thermometer such as the one made by Coverite™, the Sun Valley Ski Tools Wax Iron Platform or in a pinch a dial stem thermometer. Set the dial of the iron to a desired temperature and allow it to heat up. When the thermostat in the iron turns off the temperature will begin to drop, at a certain point the thermostat will click on and the temperature will begin to climb, this is called the thermostat window. In this way an analog iron stays near the desired set point temperature, the thing to watch out for is wide fluctuations (more than 8˚C). Keep in mind; some irons are designed to heat slightly past the temperature marked on the dial to counteract the heat loss incurred when the iron comes in contact with the ski base. The data from this test helps determine where the dial should be set for the safest optimal temperature for a particular wax. It’s not a bad idea to check older irons as the thermostat can become less accurate with age. It is not necessary to calibrate a digital iron due to their use of a microprocessor.

As mentioned above, digital wax irons rely on a microprocessor rather than a thermostat to regulate temperature. The microprocessor simultaneously measures the iron temperature and adjusts the heating power to maintain a set temperature with minimal fluctuation. The consistency of temperature reduces the risk of base damage due to excessive heat, especially when applying powder or block overlays. Digital wax irons range in price from $120 up to $400. Price is dictated by microprocessor technology, base plate thickness and type of element used.

Toko T14 and Swix T71A Digital Waxing Irons

Any tool has the potential of doing more harm than good if used improperly and a wax iron is no exception. Good technique is essential for effective waxing and avoiding damage to the ski or board base.

Heat is a necessary component of waxing, it not only melts the wax but encourages the pores of the base to open up and accept the wax. But too much heat can seal the pores of the base and prevent good wax absorption. To prevent damage assure that the iron is operating at the correct temperature for the wax chosen. Manufactures often mark recommended melt temperatures on the packaging. It is best to use the least amount of heat to melt the wax, the slower you are able to move the iron along the ski base the better the wax penetration will be and low heat is the best way to achieve this.

It is essential to maintain a pool of wax beneath the iron. This provides a protective layer between the hot iron plate and the base. A hot iron base plate in direct contact with a ski or board base is the most important thing to avoid.

Be mindful of where the iron is set when not in use. Set it upright on the bench or in a holder such as the one made by Swix. Contaminants on an iron’s base plate can mix with the wax and scratch the ski or board base. Occasionally wipe the iron’s base plate with a piece of Fiberlene or lint-free rag and remove any excess wax build-up around the base plate as it tends to burn and producer smoke overtime. A clean iron is a happy iron!

As you likely know, a ski or snowboard has two sides to an edge, the side…er…side and the base side. Both need to be maintained. To ensure angle accuracy along the entire length of the edge it is best to use a bevel guide. I once worked with an Australian who tuned skis freehand, no guide, he claimed he could “feel” the angle…he also swore his dog drove him home from the bar one night. Until your dog starts driving, probably best to stick with a guide.

There are two tool approaches to beveling ski or snowboard edges.

A bevel device is a tool with a plastic or metal body that can accept small file or stone inserts. Most will also have an adjustment knob to set your desired bevel angle. They are convenient, easy to use and provide precise results even for less-than-attentive or skilled tuners. Some models address both the side and base edges eliminating the need for two separate guides. The file and stone selection for these devices is fairly wide. Disadvantages include more frequent file and stone cleaning or replacement (since file inserts are small and wear faster) and less “feel” for the cutting action of the files since your fingers usually can’t touch the file. They are a great choice for families with multiple pairs of skis to tune, travelers, folks just getting started or those who don’t want to spend all night in the garage tuning.

Example of an adjustable bevel device.

A side bevel guide looks somewhat like a piece of angle-iron, it slides along the base and holds the file or stone at a specific angle to the side edge. A base bevel guide slides along the base perpendicular to the edge and holds the file or stone at a specific angle to the base edge. Most any size file, diamond stone or aluminum oxide stone can be securely clamped or set in these guides. Their advantage is flexibility (use ’em with whatever favorite file or stone you prefer), longer file life (since files are larger and you can utilize their full cutting surface), and greater cutting sensitivity (since your fingers are usually in direct contact with the file itself instead of a plastic or metal tool body). Downside? They require greater attentiveness and skill, plus many bevel guides (but not all) are sold in degree-specific models…meaning you need different guides for different bevel angles. You’ll also need two, one for the base edges and another for the side edges. These are a good choice for more experienced tuners looking for flexibility, ultimate precision and don’t mind spending an extra bit of time at the bench.

Example of a side bevel guide.

Example of a base bevel guide.

That’s it in a nutshell, hope it helps!

Longtime Toko users will likely have a quantity of Dibloc on hand, this is not an issue as Dibloc and Tribloc can be used together.

Toko Tribloc HF Waxes – Available in 40g or 120g

Toko Tribloc LF Waxes – Available in 40g or 120g

Part of Toko’s popularity is the simplicity of the system, just three glide waxes (yellow, red, blue) covering conditions from spring slush to teeth-chattering ice. In addition to these main waxes a black base prep wax is offered, this wax contains DLC (diamond like carbon) that increases durability and wax hold, it has antistatic qualities and is excellent at repelling dirt. This wax is an improvement over the Moly Base Prep of previous years. The black waxes are used as an initial wax layer, providing a foundation for subsequent glide wax layers.

Toko NF Waxes – Available in 40g or 120g

Toko has also introduced a revamped line of non-fluoro waxes, the NF line. These waxes replace the System 3 waxes and are the perfect choice for those looking for a high quality glide wax to use on a daily basis, or as training waxes. They are affordable and easy to use. They are bluesign® approved for a very high degree of environmental responsibility and safety, from manufacturing to end user.

Toko Hot Box & Cleaning Wax – Available in 120g
Toko HF Rub-On Wax – 25g

Rounding out the new wax line are two unique waxes. The first is a non-fluoro hot box and cleaning wax. This is a very soft wax with a low melting point designed to penetrate deeply into a base. Use it for initial base preparation on new skis, hot boxing or to clean bases using the hot scrape method (basically applying a layer of wax and scraping while still warm to remove old wax and contaminants from the base). The second is a repackaged version of the high fluoro rub-on wax. The new packaging is designed like a lip balm, simply twist the base and the wax extends. Very compact and pocket friendly, a great wax for second runs, junior racers or getting a bit more zip out of your skis after lunch!

That concludes the new goodies from Toko, we love trying new waxes and look forward to giving these a go this season!

BOOT FITTING AIDS 
Eighty-five-percent of boot fitting is simple cause and effect...problem solving which can be accomplished with well made footbeds and/or basic boot fit aids. The remaining 15% may require some special tools, fit aids, or diagnostic skills (such as recognizing the cause of the problem to be a railed ski, mismounted ski binding, or other cause not actually involving the boot or foot).

Boot fit aids should be viewed as tools. Don't be afraid to modify them or use them in areas that they weren't specifically designed for.

• Heel lifts raise the foot which changes the fit in several places...including the ankle bones, instep, arch, and the calf at the top of the boot. They can also help move a skier's weight forward into a more aggressive stance. Heel lifts should be placed between the boot liner and the footboard of the boot shell.

• Heel wedges are usually used for pronation under the heel, positioned thick side to the inside. It can also be used under the big toe and first metatarsal head to take up slack there for better edging.

• Tongue pads come in various sizes, from small pads to take care of localized problems like bone spurs, to full-length pads which take up volume and help eliminate shin bang.

• Insole shims are place between the boot liner and the footboard of the boot shell, they are a great way to reduce volume in boots that are too big or that have packed out over time. Sold in a couple thicknesses and various sizes. Size up if unsure because you can easily trim them down. 

• Insoles or footbeds cushion hot spots on the bottom of the feet, support arches, keep feet in a neutral position and insulate from the cold. Always be sure to use quality insoles or footbeds to avoid compression and provide dependable support. One of the best things you can do to improve the fit of your boots is to replace the stock insole with a quality off-the-shelf insole or a custom footbed.

• Side pads such as narrowing pads, C-pads, L-pads, modified heel wraps, etc., are used to take up slack and support the foot in cases of narrow heels, pronation, etc. They can be customized (with sanding, etc.) to give space to ankle bones, naviculars, etc. If only one per foot is used, place it on the inside of the foot. Taper the edge, and stick it in position to the outside of the boot liner.

• Instep pads can be fashioned from foam sheets and are used to hold the foot down and back. They will help take pressure off of the surf bump, shin, and toes. After they have been tested, build them into the tongue if possible.

Most foam boot fitting pads have an adhesive back, that is pretty darn sticky. You can increase the initial stickiness by heating the back of the pad and your boot liner with a hair dryer or heat gun prior to applying. If you feel you need to glue them in place, use quality boot fitting cement, like Barge. Clean both faces, apply cement, let dry, put pieces together, and hammer or squeeze securely.

Pronation -The Biggest Culprit

The most common boot fitting problem is pronation of the foot. Being able to recognize and handle pronation will resolve 80% of fit problems. Although pronation appears to be a simple problem of a flat foot...where the foot rolls to the inside and the instep nearly disappears...there is, in reality, much more going on. First, the bottom of the foot tries to turn to the outside while the front of the foot moves to the outside and up. These motions rotate the lower legs to the inside and put additional lateral stress on the knees. You are now confronted with a foot that is both misaligned and misshaped...and this creates misfunction. Some pain may appear behind the small toe. The long toe can also hurt , because pronation makes a foot not only wider, but longer as well, and the long toe may jam against the end of the boot. Three bones on the inside of the foot...the ankle, navicular, and talus, can be a problem- the latter only sticking out during pronation. The arch may cramp, irritation at the back of the heel is common, there can also be shin bite because of the leg rotation, and cold feet are not uncommon due to pinched vessels.
     When confronted with a pronated foot, the boot you purchase becomes more critical. You want a boot that holds the foot snug and in alignment. If the boot lacks some containment, it can be augmented with side pads (narrowing pads, C-pads, etc.) on the inside of the foot, and heel wedges placed under the heel and metatarsal heads, positioned thick side to the inside under the insole. The ultimate aid is a well-built orthotic or custom insole.

Supination

At the opposite end of this spectrum is the foot that has rolled to the outside. Unlike the loose pronated foot, it is locked and rigid. It can't be reshaped, to the boot has to be reshaped instead. Start with the foot-bed to redistribute pressure, then reshape the tongue to accommodate the high instep. This is one of the toughest problems to take care of. Fortunately, however, it is much more uncommon and not encountered nearly as frequently as a pronated foot. 

GOOD BOOT FIT
Some good questions to ask when fitting ski boots are...
"Starting at the front of the boot and moving to the rear, you should have the following sensations: Your toes should be free to move, your midfoot should be comfortably supported, and the heel and ankle area should be securely supported with a very precise fit." If any of these criteria are not met, you should try another boot model and then, if necessary, proceed with fit alterations.
-Bruce B., Nordica USA 

FINDING A GOOD BOOT-FITTER
Check out the following website for a list of shops with boot-fitters who have recently undergone professional training. MasterFit 
Are you looking for a certified bootfitter in your local area? Go to www.bootfitters.com/index.html and click on "Find a Certified Shop".

FOOTBED & FLEX TIPS
"Before installing a footbed in a boot, lay it inside the boot shell after removing the inner boot. When centered in the well of the boot shell, the footbed should sit at least 1/4" away from the shell on all sides. Trim the footbed until that margin is achieved, or the boot will deform the footbed. A skier should be able to flex their ankles (and therefore their shins) forward at least 10-12° from vertical when in a buckled ski boot. If you can't, try using a heel lift to increase forward lean position. Another reason is a very stiff boot...but this can be stretched at a good shop to allow more forward flex."
-Bob G., Taos, NM

BREATHING ROOM
"Getting a little extra ankle bone or bone spur room in ski boots can sometimes be done inexpensively. Use a small 2" or 3" c-clamp and screw it down gently but firmly in the ankle bone area of your inner boot. It'll move or flatten the flow foam out of that area and may give you the needed space."
-Ron K., Snowbird, UT. 

REMOVAL TRICK

"Anyone who's struggled to remove footbeds from alpine ski boots knows how difficult it can be...screwdrivers don't work well and can damage the boot liner. An old bicycle spoke (14 gauge works well) can be fashioned into an ideal footbed removing tool. It costs about a dime and takes 5 minutes to bend into shape with pliers. After bending, file any rough ends smooth. Slide the hook end down under the arch of the footbed, then turn the hook end inward and slide it back under the footbed heel. Slip a finger through the tool loop and pull the footbed out...simple."
-Norman H., Northville, MI 

BOOT CAULK
"For inner ski boot liner build-ups and repairs I use silicone caulk. It sticks anywhere, remains flexible, can be trimmed with a sharp knife, and is even available in basic black for that professional look. It makes good heel lifts, too, with a hand-made mold while providing a little cushion in the bumps."
-Harvey W., Haslett, MI 

BOOT STRETCHING & GRINDING
These are operations that require special tools usually found only in pro ski shops. Work with a shop that specializes in custom boot-fitting whenever possible...it may cost a little more, but good workmanship is worth it. 

HEEL LIFTING VS. LOWERING?
We hear from some boot gurus that some World Cup alpine racers strive to lower...rather than raise...the ramp angle in their ski boots. In other words, they want to ski in boots where the heel is not raised, but at the same level or lower than their toes. Where this idea is going to end up we don't know yet...but if you have input, we'd like to hear...call or drop us a line.

INPUT RECEIVED...
"It has been my experience that, to understand something almost imperceptible, it sometimes helps to exaggerate the situation. If you raise your toes and balls of the feet up, the body's natural compensation is to ease forward. The opposite is also true...raise the heels, and the compensation is to ease back. Where would you wish your body to naturally, automatically and without conscious thought or intention to go if you were barrelling down a race course at mach 3? These racers, no doubt, want their heels down, so they'll naturally put more shin against the tongue, more pressure on the ski tip."
-Randy V., IA

BUNION BOOT FIT REMEDY
"I have a bunion on my foot near my big toe, and pressure on it in my ski boot was causing pain. I removed the boot liner and, with my foot in it, marked the area with a felt-tip pen. Using an exacto razor knife, I cut around the marked area on the outside of the liner, being careful not to penetrate the liner interior material. This cutout formed a circular pocket for my bunion to ‘sit’ in. I covered the outside of the boot liner in this area with duct tape to keep moisture out. 
I still needed some additional room, however, so I marked the outside of the boot shell in this area, warmed it with a heat gun, and was able to bulge out the softened shell by pressing out with a rounded object from inside the shell. I held this until the shell cooled and was left with a slight bump on the shell. Now the fit is perfect. [A ski shop can do this for you, too, of course if you have concerns about overheating the boot shell - ed.&91; 
After finding my ankle bones were hurting, I also did cutouts in my liner, but filled these with a very soft foam (actually, make-up sponges from a drug store) and covered the outside of the liner in this area with duct tape again. Now I have custom soft-formed pockets to gently cradle my ankle bones, which also help lock the liner around my ankles for a snugger fit as well."
- Michael M., Long Island, NY

BOOT DRYING & HEATING

COLD FEET?
Here's a tip to help those who suffer from cold feet:
1) Apply hand lotion to your feet before putting on ski boots. Make sure to apply it between your toes too. This will help keep your body heat in that area stable.
2) Next, apply liberal amounts of baby powder to your feet...and between your toes. This will help keep the feet dry if they get sweaty.
3) After putting your socks on, apply baby powder to the insides of your boots. This is added protection against wetness.
Remember...warm feet means more time on the slopes to enjoy the great tuning job you. ve done on your gear!
-Dan N., Brighton, MI 

WET FEET?
To avoid wet feet due to perspiration I spray them lightly with anti-perspirant...then wait for them to dry before putting on my socks.
-Marty S., Arvada, CO 

A BONNIE BOOT DRYER
I came across my wife's old bonnet-type hair dryer sitting in the basement. I built a wood box to hold the dryer unit, connected the dryer hose to two pieces of PVC pipe that project about 8" straight up out of the box, and now have my own ski boot and glove dryer. The dryer has good air flow and multiple heat settings...use a low one for safest drying.
-Eric A., Fairview, PA 

BOOT HEATER TIP
Attach the battery pack for your ski boot heater to a warm place on your body...on your belt, in a parka pocket, etc. The batteries will last longer during the day.
-Harvey W., Haslett, MI

HOME BOOT DRYER
An inexpensive but effective ski boot and glove dryer is the exhaust vent on most canister type vacuum cleaners. Attach the hose to this vent and direct room temperature air inside the boot or glove. It makes some noise, but only takes a few minutes and doesn't hurt the vacuum cleaner or your ski equipment.
-Dirk S., Highland Park, IL 

WARM FEET & HANDS
If your hands or feet get cold because of perspiration, apply a little anti-perspirant or baby powder to them beforehand. If they get cold because of poor circulation (not caused by tight boot or glove fit), sprinkle on just a little cayenne powder...available at grocery or health food stores. Be careful not to use too much, though, and wash it off after skiing or boarding...otherwise the heated feeling may persist for a few days.
-Glen L., Travis AFB, CA 

FISHY BOOT DRYER
I use an aquarium tank air pump (about $20 from a pet shop) with extended plastic tubing as a boot dryer. It pumps room temperature air into wet boots and runs quietly.
-Alan S., St. Louis, MO 

WARMER FEET
For warmer feet, I custom cut an insole from a small square of 1/8”-thick “radiant infloor heating pad”...which is a bubble pad sandwiched by silver thermal wrap. I place it between my boot insole and the plastic boot sole. It provides insulation plus helps reflect heat that my foot would otherwise lose. It’s thin enough to not affect my boot fit and is very inexpensive.
-Mike M., Fredericton, NB, Canada 

BOOT REPAIRS

CRACKED BOOT REPAIR
I have a ski boot that’s developed a crack in the hard shell. It’s not in a major structural part of the boot, but it’s in a place where flexing occurs, and the crack has gotten longer.
I’m thinking of drilling a small hole at the end of the crack to help stop it, then use some sort of adhesive to try to close the crack itself, or use some sort of fiber tape that could then be glued over the crack. The crack is fairly clean, so there isn’t much of a gap to fill. What do you think?
- Dave B.

Hi Dave-
Drilling a small hole at the end of the crack is the best remedy we’re aware of. This will often stop the crack from getting longer in newer boots...altho boot shells that are older (usually more brittle) can be problematic. Gluing the crack will probably not stop it from getting longer, but may help seal out water. Epoxy is too brittle, and cyanoacrylate (superglue) may have a damaging reaction with the shell material. You could try urethane glue and see if this stays put, or silicone caulking to help keep water out. As for a fiber tape, we don’t know since we’ve never tried this approach. A standard filament tape from the hardware store might help seal out water, as would duct tape...at least temporarily. Any other kind of tape (especially stiffer) would probably be difficult to keep in a creased area, and could also interfere with the present flex of your boot...so you may not have success with this.
Lastly, if your boots are still under warranty, the manufacturer might replace either the shell, or even both boot shells. If they aren’t under warranty, then perhaps they would let you purchase a replacement shell. It might be worth a try...

BOOT BUYING & SIZING TIPS

SKI BOOT BUYING TIPS
A) Don't be in a hurry. Try on at least several boot models. When you narrow your choice down to two models, wear one model on one foot and the other model on your other foot. Stand and walk around in 'em for 15-20 minutes to see if the boots loosen up or pressure points develop.
B) Since feet tend to spread during the day, try boots on in the afternoon when they are largest. Don't try boots on after skiing that same day in your old boots because your feet may be sore and give you incorrect pressure point feedback.
C) To make sure you get the right size, pull out the inner boot and stand in the boot shell...this provides more accurate sizing than any foot-measuring device. Shell sizes do not usually get smaller with every shoe size, only the inner boot does...so see if you can fit comfortably in the next smaller shell size.
D) Wear your regular ski socks, long underwear, and ski pants when trying on new boots.
E) To help determine if you should get custom insoles or footbeds, remove the inner boot, slip the new boot footbed in the shell and stand on it. If you have a hard time balancing on one foot in the boot shell, you're a good candidate for custom insoles. Remember, bootfitting is the art of marrying a soft, flexible foot to a hard rigid shell...the footbed plays a critical part in helping to make a foot more rigid in a supportive, comfortable way.
F) If possible, demo the boots before you buy. Cold temperatures can make a boot much stiffer and therefore feel different. On-snow testing is always the truest test.

FINGER FIT
To determine if a new ski boot is the right size for you, remove the inner boot from the hard shell, then slide your bare foot into the hard, empty and probably cold shell. If the size is right, you won't be able to fit more than two fingers behind the heel when your toes are touching the end of the boot. If you can fit three fingers, move down a half size...if you can't fit one finger, move up a half size.

BOOT SIZING
Boot sizing can be real confusing since there's so danged many standards...US, European, mondopoint, etc. Mondopoint's the international metric sizing system used by most boot manufacturers. But, despite even this standardization, finding the right fit is still a bit of a crap shoot. This is affected by different 'interpretations' of the same size by different manufacturers, or even the density of the foam in boot liners. So use these figures as just a starting point to begin your hunt for the right boot, and go from there. Remember, it' s best to work with a good boot fitter to find boots that fit snugly without causing pain, regardless of the size marked on the boot shell.

men      women   mondo-    europe    u.k.
(usa & canada)    point 
4            5            22          35         3
5            6            23          36.5       4
6            7            24          38          5
7            8            25          39          6
8            9            26          40.5        7
9            10           27          42          8
10           11           28          43          9
11           12           29          44.5       10
12           13           30          45.5       11
13                         31          47          12
14                         32          48          13
15                         33           49          14

BOOT SIZING TIPS
When fitting alpine ski boots, your heel should be held down and back when your knees flex forward...even if you can get heel lift pushing up from the ball of your foot. Also, your foot should feel snug without tightening buckles all the way down.
If you feel tingling, numbness, or hot spots in your feet, check for wrinkles in your socks...or try switching to a better quality insole to reposition your foot in the boot.
Your toes should have room to wiggle in a ski boot. It's OK if they touch the end of the boot when you stand upright, just be sure they pull back when the boot is buckled and your knees are flexed forward.

RACE BOOT FACTS 
Alpine racers use a smaller boot than the average skier to obtain the most snug and powerful fit. As a result, they usually need boot shells ground or stretched more frequently. Also, boot shell and liner height should match the tibia bone length of a racer. Tommy Moe's boot shell and liner top are actually lower than what comes on a stock boot.
On the average, World Cup alpine racers need their boots refit about every 20 days of skiing due to boot wear and degradation.
-Kelly T., Lange Race Bootfitter 

STIFFNESS TEST
Alpine ski boot shells invariably become stiffer as temperatures drop. If you want to simulate how stiff your boots will feel in freezing conditions without waiting for winter, try this at the ski shop or home. Slip 'em on and check how easily (or not) they flex at room temperature. Then blast 'em with a CO2 fire extinguisher...it'll chill the shells big time (this technique also works great for cooling beer bottles). Now check the flex again and see if it suits your skiing needs. Oh yeah, don't forget to wash off your boots afterwards, otherwise they'll look a bit strange in the lift line. And no, this won't hurt plastic shell material. Or...you could just chuck them in the freezer for awhile, not quite as dramatic but it does the trick too.

OTHER RELATED BOOT TIPS

CANTING ISSUES
Many moons ago, canting was an operation commonly performed for bow-legged or knock-kneed skiers in specialty shops to get their skis to sit flat (instead of on an inside or outside edge) in the snow. Back then, few ski boots were made with upper cuffs that adjusted side-to-side...this often resulted in skiers who, when standing on their skis in snow, had more pressure on the inside or outside edge instead of equal pressure on both. To correct this, technicians measured skiers on special teeter-totter devices that indicated how much correction was necessary, and then cut and installed cant strips (stiff plastic wedges) under their ski bindings to compensate, and achieve a flat stance.
Nowadays, the upper cuffs on most ski boots can be adjusted somewhat to the inside or outside to compensate for knock-kneed and bow-legged skiers... and better orthotics are available to alleviate many pronation and supination problems. Together, these corrective measures have resolved many alignment problems to the point where canting has slipped into relative obscurity.
In their book 'The Athletic Skier', authors Warren Witherell and David Evrard have again taken a hard look at canting, and raised some questions in the process. But before going deeper into it, let's take a moment to summarize the steps necessary to achieve optimal boot fit and stance alignment...

1. First, have your feet checked by a trained bootfitter or a board-certified pedorthist (preferably one who skis). They can advise and provide footbeds to correct for pronation, supination or other conditions. This might range from an off-the-shelf model to custom orthotics. Well-made, supportive footbeds are always an added expense when buying boots (unless you already own a set), but the returns are commensurate with the additional comfort and control they provide.
2. When purchasing boots, remove the inner liner and stand barefoot atop your footbeds inside the boot. Have the bootfitter check the upper boot cuff position relative to your calf and lower leg while standing in a balanced skiing position. The bootfitter should adjust the upper cuff as necessary to center your lower leg in relation to the upper cuff. These two steps will often take care of many stance alignment and minor canting needs.
3. If further correction is required, cant strips are usually installed under the bindings (or, in rare situations, boot soles are ground to achieve the same results...but be extremely wary since this can seriously hamper safe binding operation as well as reduce boot life). 

SOLE SPRAY
I'm a disabled skier and it's especially hard for me to clean snow off my boot sole before stepping in my bindings. I spray silicone on my boot sole bottoms every few days of skiing which causes snow and ice to fall off easily...and boy, is it worth it! (ed. note, silicone can affect the release of your bindings, it can make the boots release easier than you want).
-Klaudia B., San Marcos, CA 

SNOW UNDER YOUR BOOTS?
I'm looking for something to clean snow off the bottom of my K2 snowboard boots so I don't have to bend over and clean it off by hand...otherwise it's tough to get in my step-in bindings. Got any ideas? 
-Paul P.

Well, Paul, we've seen some boot sole scrapers you can glue on your board, but they looked a little cheesy and wouldn't dig out snow packed up underfoot. So we recommend spraying both your boot soles and snowboard bindings with silicone...this'll help as much as anything to keep snow from sticking in the first place. 

SNOW UNDERFOOT
Telemark and nordic skiers sometimes find ice builds up under the ball of their boots. To prevent this, I spray some PAM (cooking oil in a spray can) on the boot sole and ski top and binding here. It's better than many silicone or solvent sprays since it won't harm the boots or environment.
-Annie W., Salt Lake City, UT 

BOOT SAVER
Sharp edges on snowboards can cut through your soft snowboard boots when you rest the board over your free boot while riding a chairlift. Apply a strip of duct tape over your laces to protect the boot and laces from this.
-David Y.

DRY SOCKS
When I get dressed in race or locker rooms at ski lodges, the floors are often wet (or soaked) from people coming and going. My tip is to get a plastic food tray from the cafeteria to stand on while getting dressed. It may save you from wet feet and a soggy spandex race suit.
-David Y.

EASIER BOOT ENTRY
Getting your foot into a ski boot can often be a real tugging match. If it’s warm and dry, it makes it easier...but if the boot is cold or wet, it’s almost impossible. To make this easier, here’s a little tip. I took a very thin and slippery nylon fabric (the lining of one of my mother’s discarded skirts) and cut out a pear-shaped piece about 8" (20cm) across at the wide end, and 14" (36mm) long. 
When I’m ready to put on my boots, I stand on this piece of nylon. I have the wide part of it positioned under the middle of my foot, with the narrow end running under my heel and up the back of my ankle. If it’s long enough, you can even tuck the very end of the narrow part into your ski sock. Then I wrap the wide part around my foot and simply (and nearly effortlessly!) slide into my ski boot.
Before buckling up, I just pull out this nylon piece by the narrow end that was tucked in the back of my sock...then fold it up and tuck it in my pocket.
I hope this helps...just remember to ask your mom first before you start cutting up her skirts!
-Johan W., Sweden

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