- The toughest and most durable p-tex repair material around, nearly equal to the hardness of your original sintered base material.
- We offer this thin (1/32") ribbon in 7/8" x 10 inch lengths in either black or clear.
- Sold each.
How to Use
- To apply, melt and press it directly into base gouges using ourbase repair iron or the tip of our repair pistol.
- It has a slightly gummier texture when molten than other repair materials, so be more patient applying it...but, once in place, will last nearly forever.
- It bonds better in deep gouges versus shallow ones...but that"s where you need it most anyway.
- After filling gouges, remove most of the excess repair material with our Versaplane tool
- Finish up with a well-burnished steel scraper or base flattener tool.
12 Reviews Hide Reviews Show Reviews
It's easy to use and, bonds well to the base and is ultradurable. I see no point in using anything else than this.
Best P-Tex I have ever used with my base repair soldring iron. it is the only P-Tex I will use on all my skis. Just as hard as the original base. Melts good and fills good with my flat tip soldering iron
First time using ribbon instead of candles and boy what a difference. I melted in metalgrip first as I had edge exposed and then melted the ribbon in with a Tognar repair iron (essential). I haven't had chance to ski on the repair yet but, if the time it took to scrape, file and sand back flat is anything to go by, this stuff won't be shifting any time soon. Keystone cutting your repair area (so edges are like this / \) will help the material hold in place.
I'm a ski instructor so tend to tear up bases early and late season.
Every ribbon repair I've made still there.
First clean gouge in base ... I use acetone and a small brass toothbrush.
Next score up gouge with a small stiff steel brush.
If core shot or at edge first thinly coat core or metal with metalgrip string (very soft).
Score it up again with your stiff steel brush.
Now you're ready to fill with repair ribbon.
Not the easiest to apply ... very sticky.
I use 75 watt Solder gun with a double loop tip.
Ribbon takes a while to melt.
It will never get super runny.
Just work it in and let it build proud.
Leave overnight then smooth.
I know everything hardens in 10 mins but I find letting the job sit 12 hours works.
I never get a pulled fill.
I use a sureform blade to hit the highs.
Then with a super sharp, very stiff steel scraper work from tip to tail until smooth.
Keep your scraper sharp as you work.
Iron in and hot scrape yellow wax a few times.
Restructure base and finish with a scotchbrite pad and you'll never know repar is there.
I filled a core shot on my board with this stuff, easy to work with, very durable, however took two attempts as the first time I didn't get the p-tex hot enough. After fixing my mistake I have rode on it for 27 days though eastern "Glades" (out west they would be kiddie snowplow trails) and hitting rocks and stumps this stuff has stayed in
It's tough stuff Hard to scrape Holds awesome Every repair I ever made still holding
Way better than drip candles. More durable and makes for a cleaner repair with no carbon blotches in the material. Of course you need an iron to melt it in, but in every way a better way to treat base gouges.
went on easy, a little gummy but much harder than a candle, gave it a great test, another rock and it held in with only a scrach, seems as hard as original base material.
this ribbon needs the right amount of heat